The next in my long-running series of posts aimed at nailing down the important pins on the map of essential Mod clothing.
So throw away your River Island shirts and your sailing shoes. Here are the 100 things you'd be Mod to try...
Patterned trousers are the ultimate youth testament to the old-skool, betweeded Gentlemen of the Manor. However, as with most classic Mod things, they are a blend. They are a blend of English gentry dress with Italian style, drawing in the annoyingly foppy, frumpy look of Establishment tweed into a sharper version with tighter lines, effectively stealing the best parts of style from source and sewing them into the existing patchwork of working class cool. As usual with Mod garments, there is a clear choice between subtle and overt. I tend towards the subtle - black / grey check with a plain coloured shirt works well and is versatile. The more in-your-face style strays into the territory of Skinheads, punks (with brighter tartans being a favourite) and the more outrageous wanders into 70s Glam Rock, a particular favourite "look to avoid" of mine being the Bay City Rollers. So keep it subtle, keep it cool. You're not on stage.
As a point of order, you've got to avoid wearing a patterned shirt (either stripes or check) with patterned trousers. Otherwise you run the danger of looking like a living, breathing acid trip...
Which, again, is not what we want.
This is a great shot of the lads. Not only do they look very dapper in general (shame it's a black and white photo tbh), but Steve Marriott especially is strongly representing the Mod look - polo neck, check trousers and a suede jacket.
This is interesting because I actually have a suede jacket almost exactly like the one shown here - brown suede that can button up to the neck (i.e. no lapels), but mysteriously I can't find the place where I got it from online anymore.
The shop had a great name: "Soul of 65". But it's completely disappeared. And, having briefly searched online, I can't find anywhere selling these jackets.
Which is mental. I have accidentally acquired a very rare piece of Mod / Small Faces classic clothing!
(PS: if anyone does find out where they're still selling them, send us an email)
Finally I have a response to the Daily Telegraph article I previously blogged about and a proper list of recommendations for men's coats for this Winter.
A firm Mod / Skinhead favourite; a long, sharp and dark coat that has the gravitas of a fifty year fashion pedigree. Worn well with suits or even as smart casual. Velvet contrasted collar (not shown) highly desirable but not essential. See the 100 Things post for more details.
Traditional sixties spywear. Slim-fit, light and waterproof outer layer of style to go over anything, suit or otherwise. The best are minimalist on point, without visible buttons or belts. See the 100 Things post for more details.
Classic army surplus re-fashioned in black. As readers will know, I am not fond of clichés, so military green is off the menu, but if done properly, the contrast between wartime overcoat and smart outfit underneath never gets old. See the 100 Things post for more details.
Alpha MA-1 flight jacket
Military surplus again, best combined with smart casual rather than suits. More versatile than most others and plenty of colours to choose from. See the 100 Things post for more details.
Navy Lansdowne parka
Variation on the theme of the original army surplus, complete with overly woolly collar. Very sound for those Christmas holiday walks, coming off only for the pint and a pie in front of the country pub fire. Bit pricey though.
Wouldn't be a complete list without the trusty Harrington and Baracuta G9s are the very best. Sturdier material and more resistant to wear and tear. Looks good for early Winter, but I'd choose something a bit more robust before going out in the snow.
Melton wool peacoat
Okay so this actually made it onto the Daily Telegraph's list, so I suppose they're not all wrong. Lighter than the full-length coats but still just as sharp and stylishly double-breasted. Apparently a US Navy inspired coat often with anchor insignia on the buttons. Safe to say I disagree with the "slouchy knit" look recommended on this ad by the way. Pair with smart shirt maybe paisley scarf.
Very fond of these coats, though I've never owned one myself. Thick, for those cold winter evenings and an exquisite albeit subtle check patterned fabric. Black contrasting collar tops the look.
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