Although we’re told don’t judge a book by its cover, those of us of the Mod ilk know that more often than not, what you’re wearing is the face you present to the world, so you might as well make it look good and perhaps a bit distinctive.

Nowhere is this easier to do than in the kind of shirts you wear. There are a billion combinations of colours, patterns and styles that one could look to for a distinctive look, but in this post I wanted to highlight something in particular that I thought was slightly missing its niche from the market at the moment and that is the military-style shirt.

“Style” might be a strong phrase. A shirt with any other pattern can be military style, but I would usually describe it as a shirt that is one colour, with epaulets on the shoulders and two front flap-pockets.

They're pretty rock 'n' roll and also, IMO, a good look for hot weather. Think Michael Caine, or Daniel Craig in Casino Royale. 

I always browse the usual clothing sites in my free time (/ time I’m wasting) at work just to see what goodies are bubbling away beneath the surface. This is usually quite rewarding, because I tend to just drift through the sites from page to page, clicking on links that I might not normally pay any attention to, just to see what’s there.  On Thursday, for instance, I was excited to see Adaptor had a few very bold polka dot numbers from Relco. Likewise they have a bit of paisley. Then I went to DNA Groove and Art Gallery just to have a browse and there are some serious checks and stripes going on in those places. At the moment, my favourite is the Noddy from Art Gallery, great colours, strong pattern. Then to Ben Sherman of course, where they can always be relied on to produce a powerful no-nonsense Oxford that always goes well with a jumper or suit.

But of a “military style” there is nothing to be seen.

It doesn’t have as strong a popular tradition as some of the other styles, but it was a thing. They were prominently worn by the Who some of the early pictures (especially Keith Moon), as well as by the Creation on the cover of their How Does it Feel to Feel record. If anyone’s got any other band examples, I’ll be happy to post.them here.

In the 2000s, DNA Groove had a good series of smart shirts with their classic collars, but with epaulets on the shoulders and a distinctive button style. They also had contrasting colours. All the ones I’ve got are ones I’ve designed myself on iTailor.

But I guess the only conclusion can be that this type of shirt just doesn’t sell as well as I think it should!

There is a place across the sea that is all style and yet full of substance.

​DNA Groove used to have a small shop in London’s centre called Alphabet. I can’t remember what street it was on, but I can definitely remember what was inside it; the glorious goldmine of goodies one would expect from an Italian, Mod-inspired shop. 

The first time I went (about the age of 17) I bought myself a shirt, but not just pink shirt, for DNA is all about the details. Granted, it was pink, with a contrasting black front button strip, black back box-pleat and black epaulets, so it was not exactly a subtle garment. But it also had the DNA long, signature collar and the buttons on the front were arranged in pairs, with horizontal-cut holes (instead of the usual vertical ones) and it fitted me perfectly.

The second time I went, I bought a pair of burgundy tonic trousers (yes again, wacky I know), but at that time no-one else was selling this kind of stuff so I had to snap it up! Other times, I bought different shirts, grey and black striped, blue and sky blue striped. There was a not a time when I did not feel tempted by the pure passion that obviously went into these unusual designs. 

Sadly (though perhaps understandably, given the costs associated with London property), Alphabet closed a while ago. Initially I was distraught - where was I going to find The whole business moved online, but by the looks of things, it still sells its bold-coloured, unorthodox shirts for pretty sensible prices. I’ve picked out a few of the best here so if Ben Sherman or anyone else ever let you down - you know where to turn.

As I mentioned trousers before, I feel I ought to mention they also do a great set of patterned and suit trousers, as well as jackets and other things. As is usual with these things, it’s best for you lot to get stuck in and nose around their site to find the best stuff!

I’ll leave you with a word from the DNA site itself: